Bonsai Species

The Art of Fine Ramification: Creating a Realistic Bonsai

One of the features that separates a simple potted tree from a bonsai that truly evokes a mature tree in nature is, without a doubt, its ramification. Achieving a dense branch structure with proper taper and very fine tertiary and quaternary ramification is one of the great challenges and satisfactions of this art.

In this post, inspired by the techniques of the great masters, we will explore how to achieve that desired fine ramification.

The Basic Principle: Breaking Apical Dominance

Trees, by nature, tend to grow most vigorously at the tips of the branches and at the apex. This is called apical dominance. The plant’s energy is concentrated on growing upward and outward to compete for light. To achieve a dense and balanced ramification, our main job is to constantly break that apical dominance.

By pruning the tip of a branch, the energy that was directed to that point is redistributed to the latent buds further back, forcing the tree to create new secondary branches. This is the foundation of all ramification work.

Key Techniques for Fine Ramification

1. Structural and Maintenance Pruning

Everything starts with a good primary branch structure. Once we have it, the cycle is simple but requires consistency:

  • Let it grow: We allow a branch to extend until it has several new leaves or pairs of leaves.
  • Prune: We cut the branch, leaving only one or two nodes/leaves. From the axil of these leaves, one or two new branches will emerge.
  • Select: When these new branches grow, if two appear at the same point, we will often select one and remove the other to avoid unwanted thickness or inverse tapering. If they grow in a “V” shape, it is ideal for continuing to divide the structure.

This cycle of grow -> prune -> select is the basis for multiplying the number of twigs and reducing their thickness as we move away from the trunk.

2. Pinching

Pinching is a very fine pruning done on new, tender shoots. Instead of waiting for the branch to lengthen and lignify, we pinch (with our fingers or tweezers) the terminal bud of the shoot.

  • Objective: To control the elongation of the internodes and balance the tree’s vigor. It is a less drastic technique than pruning.
  • Application: It is very common in conifers like pines (candle pinching) and junipers, but it is also used on deciduous trees to maintain the shape during the growing season.

3. Defoliation

Defoliation is an advanced technique that involves partially or totally removing the leaves of a tree during the growing period.

  • Why it works: By removing the leaves, we force the tree to produce a second flush of growth. These new leaves will generally be smaller, and most importantly, latent buds along the branches will be activated, generating a large number of new shoots and very fine ramification in a single season.
  • Warning! This is a high-stress technique. It should only be performed on very healthy and vigorous trees. Never defoliate a weak, newly repotted, or sick tree.

Species-Specific Considerations

Not all trees respond the same way. Here are some general guidelines:

  • Maples (Acer palmatum, buergerianum): They are the kings of fine ramification. They respond incredibly well to pruning and defoliation, producing delicate branches and small leaves.
  • Elms (Ulmus parvifolia, pumila): Possibly the easiest to learn ramification with. They back bud very strongly on old wood and respond spectacularly to drastic pruning. They allow for the construction of fine ramification in a relatively short time.
  • Ficus: Like elms, they are very vigorous and respond well to constant pruning. Defoliation is also a viable option to reduce leaf size and increase density.
  • Pines (Pinus): They require a specific technique and patience. The work focuses on pinching the candles in spring and, in some varieties, on “mekiri” (cutting the new candles) to force a second, more balanced flush of growth. They do not respond to pruning like deciduous trees.
  • Junipers (Juniperus): Ramification is achieved through constant pinching of the growing tips with your fingers. The use of scissors should be avoided, as the cut tips tend to dry out and leave brown marks.

Conclusion

Achieving fine ramification is a marathon, not a sprint. It is the result of applying these techniques consistently, year after year, observing how your tree responds, and adjusting your work to its pace. Patience and consistency are the most important tools for transforming a young tree into a bonsai that captures the essence of an ancient specimen from nature.